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Contents

Acknowledgements Preface to the Third Edition Introduction The Fashioned Body 3.0 Conclusion 1 Addressing the Body Introduction: Dress and the Body Theoretical Resources The body as cultural object The influence of Foucault The body versus embodiment Merleau-Ponty and embodiment Dress and embodiment Dressed bodies in space Sociological accounts of the body and embodiment Addressing the body in the twenty-first century Conclusion 2 Theorising Fashion and Dress Introduction Defining the Terms Defining dress Defining fashion Everyday dress and fashion Approaches to Fashion and Dress Sociology and fashion Addressing the literature on fashion Theoretical approaches I: 'why' questions Theoretical explanations: why fashion? Theoretical approaches II: fashion and the condition of modern life Conclusion 3 Fashion, Dress and Social Change Introduction: Theorising Fashion and Dress: Twenty-First-Century Debates Western Fashion History Fashion and Social Change The Beginnings of European Fashion Class, status and power in late medieval and early modern European culture Fashion in the Renaissance Court Fashion in the Seventeenth Century Dress, class and social identity in the eighteenth century Fashion from the Nineteenth Century Onwards Conclusion: Fashion, Social and Aesthetic Change 4 Fashion and Identity: From Modernity to Intersectionality Introduction Fashion and Identity in Modernity Modernity: Imitation and Differentiation Fashion as artifice Fashion and authenticity Clothing, class and fashioning identity The dandy The Romantic bohemian Fashion and identity in contemporary culture Class, distinction and style Subcultural style, subcultural capital Contemporary debates on fashion and identity: 'race', ethnicity and religious identities Intersectionality Conclusion 5 Identity: Gender and Fashion Introduction Sex, Gender and Sexuality Looking Back: Dress and Gender in History Femininity and fashion Dress and gender differentiation Explaining the differences - a 'natural' difference Explaining the differences - 'social' divisions Victorian dress reform Working-class dress Dress and Gender in the Twentieth Century Challenges to gendered dress Menswear: male peacocks and the 'new man' Challenges to the gender binary: androgyny and unisex clothing Cross-dressing, unisex, and transgender challenges Masquerade, gender exaggeration and ambiguity Transgender politics Gender and fashion: fashion studies in the twenty-first century Conclusion 6 Identity: Fashion, Adornment and Sexuality Introduction Sexuality, Bodies and Dress Adornment and Sexual Attraction Power-dressing, Femininity and Sexuality Fetishism and Adornment The corset controversy Transvestism Underwear and eroticism Adornment and Sexual Identity Gay and Lesbian Dress and Sexuality Conclusion 7 The Fashion Industry Introduction Historical Development of the Fashion Industry An Imperfect Industry Fashion and inequalities Gender, Class and Ethnic Relations in the Fashion Industry Fashion Consumption and Culture Changing Patterns of Fashion Retail Markets, shops and department stores Fashion as Culture Industry: Fashion Industry from the Twentieth Century From elite style to popular fashion Fashion: culture industry, circuits, and networks The field of fashion Markets as Networks Fashion in the Twenty-First Century Fashion industry: twenty-first-century contemporary critiques Sustainability Fashion ethics Ethics and diversity in fashion Conclusion Notes Conclusion: Fashioned Bodies in the Twenty-First Century References Index

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